The tallgrass prairie of eastern Kansas looks timeless, but it isn't a static ecosystem. There is constant encroachment from woodland biomes to the east, and periodic burning, along with grazing animals and drought, prevents a prairie from turning into a forest.
In pre-settlement times native peoples set fires to encourage new growth which attracted elk, bison and other game; they called prairie fire "the red buffalo." Modern cattlemen in the Flint Hills of Kansas continue the practice because, as the National Park service says, "The benefits of fire are enormous. The tied-up nutrients that take months or years to decay are within seconds turned to ash and in a form usable to plants. Sunlight warms the blackened ground and stimulates dormant plants to sprout and grow. Grazers are able to feed, uninhibited by dead litter, further stimulating growth. Trees and shrubs with the stems and branches exposed to the intense heat are killed, allowing the ground under them to receive full sunlight once again."
In other words, prairie needs fire to survive, but Flint Hills ranchers don't burn their pastures because of environmental concerns; they do so because a cow can put on two pounds of weight a day grazing on tallgrass prairie, or bluestem pasture as they call it, and the best way to keep that pasture productive is annual or semi-annual burning. That the burning also helps to protect an endangered landscape is just a bonus. Every year in March and April, they burn off the prairie, and a couple days ago I made a day trip out there to see it.
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When I drove up onto the Flint Hills near Saffordville there was burnt prairie as far as the eye could see, with only an old windmill punctuating the barrenness. This area was burned some time last week, and I began to wonder if I was too late to catch the burn.
To the south were pastures which were already greening up, which means they were burnt two or three weeks ago, but off in the distance was some smoke. Where there's smoke there's fire...
This little burn, struggling to advance into a strong north wind, isn't very impressive, but so far it's the only game in town.
Behind the fire-line are smoldering cow patties.
A close-up; these flames were no more dangerous than a Bic lighter.
Not many wildflowers were up yet, but these birdsfoot violets (Viola pedatifida) were everywhere.
I headed north from the little fire, enjoying the scenery whether it was burning or not. Here is unburnt prairie, still wearing its fall/winter colors, on the Tallgrass National Preserve north of Strong City.
The Lower Fox Creek School, a well-known landmark visible from Kansas Highway 177. Founded in 1884, the school was closed in 1930 as the local population began to decline. A tornado blew the original roof off and for a while the building was used to store hay, but it has since been restored and is now maintained by the National Park Service.
Back on the road. My day trip/quest for fire has turned into a matter of looking for smoke on the horizon then heading that direction.
Fire!
Fire fire!
Fire fire fire! In places the flames came right down to the road.
This Angus bull didn't seem concerned.
Smoke rolling over the hills.
An abandoned house and more smoke in the distance.
The cattlemen start burns in the center of a pasture, and the lines of flame spread out from there.
I pulled over here to watch flames move into a thick, matted stand of switch grass (Panicum virgatum).
The wind was from the north and I was south of the fire-line; not smart.
In the space of a couple seconds, this close-up turned into...
...this one. It's out of focus because I was backing up as fast as I could, which didn't seem nearly fast enough at the time.
The red buffalo.
Flowering trees (Cercis canadensis) stand out against the burnt landscape. If not for fire, stands of timber like this would spread from ravines and creek bottoms up onto the hillsides, and within a few decades the prairie would be a woodland.
Tallgrass in early summer, looking very different from the apparent ruination of the spring burn.
All images ©2011 by Nanatehay.

























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Comments
Seriously, this was an absolutely gorgeous pictorial. Where I am from, the Everglades have a burn cycle too. All the city people who migrated here for sun and fun thought the fires to be dangerous and subsequently tried to snuff them out with the help of Big Sugar...And the Army Corp of Engineers finished the abuse of the 'Glades by messing over the watershed carving nice neat canals for "drainage." It's turning back around now with wiser heads in charge, but fire is as necessary as water, earth and air here on earth. See? You got me thinking. A sign of really good writing and photography.
We have controlled burns out here, but for different reasons. Because it is so dry they do it as a preventive measure. We have had some devastating fires here in Boulder in the last year.
Awesome pictures!
rated
Linnnn, let's hope they restore the water cycle in the 'Glades to its proper balance. I visited there once and thought it one of the finest places I've ever been.
Myriad, I'm just the opposite; if I'm too long in a place without open skies and long horizons I start getting claustrophobic. I think you'd like the Flint Hills though, especially in summer when hundreds of species of wildflowers are blooming.
Susie, as I understand it wildfires out West were important for the ecosystems there, but once fire prevention measures began it allowed forests to get too full of brush and deadfall wood, which made the fires much worse when they happened. The controlled burns help alleviate that problem, as well as encouraging new trees and other flora which thrives in more open settings.
I read somewhere that keeping back the forests allows humankind to thrive. There isn't that much for people to eat in the bush, whereas open spaces grow grain and feature large herds of large edible creatures. So - slash and burn can be good! (Within limits I guess - considering all that smoke and lack of carbon-sucking trees...)
And what's with my tax dollars going to support that empty old prairie school house? Why, that money would be much better spent giving another tax break to Mobil or David Koch or fighting a war in some backwater Mideast country!
Rated with hugs
uts me in mind of the Slaveholders, ironically, bc they virtually ruined the South's soil bc they refused so often to allow fields to lie fallow--a necessity for replenishment--in favor of constant profits. This was a major reason they demanded slave-state expansion into the west and dreamed of conquering Mexico and Central America.
r.
Great pictures and what an honor to be backed up by a Red Buffalo. Thanks as well for the mini botany lesson~
Glad to see this photo essay.
R
Actually, fire is *not* a disaster in most places. In fact, most forests in the US are fire-adapted and -dependent. Eastern deciduous forests, which cover(ed) most of the eastern half of the US, were subject to regular fires, and are now losing diversity in part due to fire-suppression (though overbrowsing by deer is the bigger problem here). Most Western forests, too - especially montane and drier forests - are absolutely fire dependent, as are Southern forests. Fire is only (occasionally) problematic today because the decades of fire-suppression has led to a build-up of fuels which causes the historic ground fires to climb into the canopy and become tree-killing crown fires.
In the last decade or two, we've started to realize that Smokey has done more harm than good.
I wonder what they did before steel fence posts.
We had intended to spend a day at the Tallgrass Prairie Preserve last week when we came through Kansas, but the wind was blowing 50 mph — although out of the south that day — and we decided to turn west instead and drive through Quivira in search of whooping cranes. I'd forgotten that the wind can blow so hard in Kansas that I can't walk into it.
Great photos and time to learn the life lesson for good: stay upwind.
Beautiful photos, and really educational too. I need to get out and see the prairie!
In “PrairyErth,” Wm. Least Heat-Moon says about fire that it has two faces: “for everything taken it makes a return in equal measure.” In the west, naturally occurring wildfires play an integral role in nature, returning nutrients to the soil and acting as a “disinfectant” for the forest ecosystem among other things.
I'd like to know how they start the fires and how they're controlled. Do they burn out on their own or must they be put out? And as an observer, do you watch at your own risk?
... hmm ?
Beautiful pictures though - like others, I find the Abandoned House especially so. And The Red Buffalo. All of them, really.
@ Larry - in Aus anyway, grassfires move so fast timber that fenceposts aren't in any danger - but where would you get even timber posts, in a prairie ? Maybe they didn't need them, before high speed trucks and highways ?
Love the last pic - like Tom, I couldn't help but wonder how it might look with Buffalo.
♥R
Thank you so much and I am damn glad to see you here! :)
Rated even though the Ed I Tor got drunk today and put ya on the cover too!!! :D
(Just kidding, well deserved my friend!!!)
**Wanders off into the thorn bushes**
earth,
air,
water
and fire...
tis all there is.
atoms? incidental to our situation, i feel.
burn baby burn...
But if you get to the Lower Fox Creek Schoolhouse you’ll find,
A lesson waiting where the violets birdsfoot stand in bloom
In the midst of a poetically just firestorm’s loom.
A fine piece, in every way. fascinating...
Good one and congratulations NANA!
congrats on the EP
Birdog
ph
Paula, long time no see. I hope you're doing well.
Blue, I took the second through fifth photos in this post south of Matfield Green, though I'm not sure if I was in Butler or Chase county. It was spectacular country though, even for the Flint Hills.
Again, thank you to everyone who came by, and for your comments. I ordinarily answer comments individually but was away from my computer for quite a while after posting this.
I know, awesome right!! I wish I would have gone public years ago, I want to kill SOOOOOOOO many people!!!!!
:D
"THE BABY AIN'T MINE! THAT BYTCH IS CRAZY, BABY DON'T EVEN LOOK LIKE ME!"
Then the result ---- "TOLD YA THE BABY WASN'T MINE, BYTCH IS A SLUTZ!!!!! DID THE WHOLE DALLAS COWBOY TEAM AT THE SAME TIME, INCLUDING THE WATER BOY!!"
Then I storm off with my new girl friend, Tasha.
I know, difficult lines, I'm ready though!! Tough being an 'author'!!
~nodding~
Blind Dog, there's still some burning going on but it's mainly over for this year. It's time to get ready for fishing season.
Margaret, do you know what a Hollaback Girl is? Regarding the fires, they start them with tanks of what looks like napalm, either handheld or on the back of a truck or ATV. The tank drips little balls of fire in the grass in a nice neat line, which gives good control of exactly where the burn begins, which in turn helps determine where it goes. Sometimes they start with what's called a blackline, which is a firebreak which keeps the flame from going to areas they don't want it. From my observations, sometimes they stick around and micromanage the fire but more often they start it and let things take their course, which is where the blacklines and an awareness of what the wind is doing that day come in handy. They're burning large areas, so if they watched each fire 'til it burnt out they'd never accomplish any of the other rancher stuff they have to do.
Mr. Fett, I'll have a look.