Love in Mexico

Navigating family and place

loveinmexico

loveinmexico
Location
Morelia, Michoacán, Mexico
Birthday
December 31
Bio
I spent 2010-2011 living in Morelia, Mexico, with my husband, and our two kids (#2 was born in Mexico). While I was there, I tried to learn about family, as it exists in Mexico, across a border, and as the m.o. for the local criminal organization, La Familia. ........................................... This blog documents the encounters and events that taught me about Mexico, and about the culture of family, Mexico's and my own. ................................................ I currently teach creative writing at Colgate University, where I am writing a book about El Salvador. If you have enjoyed my work here, I post my latest on mollybeer.blogspot.com. ........................................... Thanks for reading.

MY RECENT POSTS

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(Photo by elzoh

 

 

“I didn’t just hail from a different place. I had a different kind of life,” writes Gianpiero Petriglieri of the mobile lifestyle that comes with his work training global business leaders. 

I am not a global leader, or eve… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
JUNE 30, 2011 6:02PM

The Culture Shock of Coming Home

 

Church Rock vista
From Old Mexico to New. 

 

If I got in my car this too-hot afternoon, I could be in Juarez in time for dinner. 

When we drive across the Rio Grande for Sunday lunch with his grandparents, I tell my son that if we… Read full post »

JUNE 5, 2011 1:13PM

Mexico's Poet Peace March (pics)


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 In March, the son of Mexico's prize-winning poet and novelist, Javier Sicilia, was found murdered. The poet's response was two-fold: one final poem (below) and two feet on the ground. Sicilia has led several marches now, including one from his home in Cuernavaca to President
Read full post »
Editor’s Pick
JUNE 2, 2011 12:47PM

Adiós to Mexico

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My keyboard looks like a pirate’s maw, gaping holes that were once keys, stains on others, and its hard drive is jammed full of photographs: pyramids, pink stone, parades, fireworks behind cathedral spires, and hundreds of hotel rooms I could never afford on a hotel reviewer’s in… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
MAY 26, 2011 11:10AM

Real Mexican Food: Gaspacho Moreliano

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Morelia, Michoacán

 

            Surprisingly few people know about Morelia, the beautiful city in the center of Mexico. I admit that, even if it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the capital of Michoacán, I ha/… Read full post »

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I am trying to write this from my temporary home in Morelia, Michoacán, one of the places red alerted for travelers, to sum up Mexico’s War on Drugs so I can write about some of the things (extra)ordinary people are doing about it, but it is Sunday night, and/… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
MAY 9, 2011 5:00PM

Roots and Wings and the Story

I grew up on a farm in your quintessential middle-of-nowhere. While my dad cursed his cows and tractors and broken down trucks—“peckerhead” should have been my first word, my mom nursed a vast  vegetable garden, a flock of Thanksgiving turkeys that were notoriously too large… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
MAY 3, 2011 8:59AM

Mexico Celebrates Dia del Niño

“When we see a pretty flower, we stop to look at it and smell it, right?”

My son keeps his face hidden. He gets shy when strangers gush at him.

“And seeing that flower makes us happy, right?”

He nods into my chest.

“Well, people in Mexico feel that… Read full post »

 

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“Who is that man?” my son asks as soon as we arrive.

The man playing Jesus is wearing a white tunic. There is fake blood on his face.

I take a deep breath and… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
APRIL 11, 2011 12:17PM

Travel With Your Children


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Ruins at Tzintzuntzan, Mexico
 

Yes, it’s difficult; but what isn’t? Yes, it’s not what it used to be; but what else is new since you became a parent? Yes, you have to pack half your house; but do it anyway. Travel with your children. Travel while they’re… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
APRIL 6, 2011 3:57PM

Citizen Limbo


The doorbell buzzes.

It is probably Alfredo, our neighborhood auxiliary policeman who is not so old but is missing a prominent front tooth. He visits periodically to collect our twenty-peso contribution to his force-of-one. More often, he drops by to ask for a donation to help him through the latest… Read full post »

APRIL 1, 2011 7:21PM

Sweet Mexican Education

 

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 (My latest Love in Mexico correspondence essay is live on National Geographic's Glimpse.org. An excerpt is below, or read the whole thing here.) 

 

“Dulce, dulce, dulce, dulce,” sings my two-year-old son as I stroller him over cobblestones.

Yes, &ld… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
MARCH 21, 2011 11:03AM

Mexico's Children of Springtime (photos)

 
Morelia celebrates the first day of Spring with this desfile de niños.
 
 
 
(click on image for full-sized view)

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Editor’s Pick
MARCH 18, 2011 11:00AM

Studying "Death Trains" in Mexico: An Homage to Bravery

 


 

On our second morning in Mexico City, my son’s Matchbox convertible somehow landed in sludge. Noelle, who has decided I can use her name forward now that this post has been live for a while, is my husband’s colleague (and my closest fellow gringa mother, or… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
MARCH 11, 2011 2:07PM

Is Travel to Mexico Safe?

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Morelia, Mexico 

 

Two articles have come to my attention this week, one an op-ed in the Washington Post by Edith R. Wilson, a former advisor to the World Bank, and a post by CBS Travel Editor Peter Greenberg, the “Contrarian Traveler.” The gist of each was this:/Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
MARCH 7, 2011 11:07AM

My "Under the Mexican Sun"?: On Imagination and Travel

Is it lack of imagination that makes us come
to imagined places, not just stay at home?

"Questions of Travel" by Elizabeth Bishop

Driving across Guatemala in my old Salvadoran Volvo, Steve and I planned a school we would open in some remote corner of that land of so… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
MARCH 2, 2011 11:26AM

Comparative Parenting, or, Freezing My Babies in Mexico

 

“Señora, his feet!” The woman rushing at me over the cobblestones, well-dressed in a beige pantsuit, all but gasped in horror.

I stopped pushing my son’s flimsy stroller, but before I could defuse the situation, she had my toddler’s bare feet in her hands.

&ldq… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
FEBRUARY 14, 2011 3:26PM

A Healthy Body Politic? Vaccines in Mexico

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“Un momento,” called A’s teacher Anita as we strollered away from his Montessori school one afternoon.

When she caught up, she handed my husband a small slip of white paper printed faintly on one side.

“Today they came to give vaccinations. A had one for polio.Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
FEBRUARY 7, 2011 11:26AM

Getting The Lead Out Of Mexican Ceramics

 

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 Glazed dishes being stacked into a traditional open-top, wood-fired kiln, Capula, Mexico

 

For the Super Bowl, we headed across the street to a steak place with a big television. We ordered Victoria beers and hammered-thin bistec served a la mexicana or arrachera, with gr/… Read full post »

 

Teotihuacan

 My son may not be safe in all the ways that he could be. He might not be safe at all. But I want more for him than his bodily safety and my peace of mind. I also want him to grow up flexible and free andRead full post »

Editor’s Pick
JANUARY 26, 2011 10:38AM

Baby Steps Down the Path to Citizenship (Part I of ??!)

 

 

My husband and I—both born and raised U.S. citizens—have lived in Central and South America in the past, and on both sides of the border, in New and Old Mexico; so we have heard a lot of immigration stories.

We have even had minor immigration… Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
JANUARY 24, 2011 1:32PM

In the Land of the Butterflies

 

Flutter #1

 

 

Monarchs live for only two months unless they are born in the fall, then (if they live east of the Rockies) they fly thousands of miles to Michoacán and hang out on the same bunch of fir trees their great-greatRead full post »

JANUARY 18, 2011 11:52AM

La Venganza Baby (Birth Story)

La venganza—that’s what stomach distress is called in Mexico. Moctezuma’s revenge on Mexico’s invaders.

La venganza set in for me the Saturday before Christmas. We’d been at a party until our toddler broke Baby Jesus out of the nativity scene and my husband and I imple… Read full post »

This year I am a correspondent for National Geographic's Glimpse.org. This essay about how travel has changed me and how I have changed as a traveler is the first of my articles there to go live. Here's a bit of the essay below; link below for the whole shebang.

 

 … Read full post »

Editor’s Pick
DECEMBER 13, 2010 10:01AM

The Post-Backpack Traveler (Mexican Road Trip)

When the posada’s night clerk opened the door to our “cabana,” I blanched. Before me was a cubicle with four plywood bunks laid over with thin blue vinyl mats reminiscent of high school gym class. My husband forged ahead, toddler in arms. There was barely room for him… Read full post »