
My grandmother’s Irish heritage showed up in her hilariously salty sense of humor and in her cooking. As prolific as the jokes were, however, she could only cook one thing: a baked potato. But it was irresistibly delicious. Her secret was simple. She just added half a stick of butter to each potato and mashed it in its skin. Next to the overcooked meat patty and the canned wax beans, the potato shone like a pot of gold.
It wasn’t until I went to Ireland that I celebrated my own connection to the country. As a child growing up in Manhattan, St. Patrick’s Day was a little scary. We lived at the end of the parade route and the trip home from school was an obstacle course of drunken merrymakers, regurgitated green beer and invitations to “Kiss Me, I’m Irish”.
But after my honeymoon at Ashford Castle, where The Quiet Man was filmed, I was a committed holiday celebrant. We mark the holiday with pints of Guinness and Colcannon, a delicious mixture of cabbage, leeks and potatoes.
The dish couldn’t be easier to make and is the perfect seasonal recipe. Colcannon is a favorite of locavore chefs, trying to adhere to the growing calendar. Just before the spring vegetables appear, when every root vegetable and hardy member of the cabbage family has been boiled, steamed, roasted or pureed, this is a delicious amalgamation of both categories.
Colcannon used to be served on Halloween when charms were hidden in large dishes of it, portending a marriage proposal to the lucky lass who found one in her bowl. Some desperate girls even put a spoonful in a sock to hang on the handle of the front door. Pity the poor eligible bachelor whose hand missed the knob and reached for the sock.
Forgoing charms and footwear, I recommend you serve your colcannon as a side dish or on its own with a green salad instead of green beer. And make it a Harp or a Guinness. With that tall glass, a Gaelic toast to your health this St. Patrick’s Day: “Sláinte!”
Colcannon
Ingredients
• 1 head green cabbage, quartered and sliced in ¼ inch pieces
• 1 lb potatoes (I prefer Yukon Gold)
• 2 leeks, washed and sliced in ¼ inch pieces
• 1 cup milk
• 5 Tbs. butter
• 2 scallions, sliced
• Salt and pepper to taste
Directions
1. Boil potatoes in salted water. I boil them whole and peel when they are cool enough to handle. (Salt the water until it tastes like the sea.)
2. Steam sliced cabbage until soft. You can use some of the potato water. Drain.
3. Slice leeks and gently sauté slowly in 1 Tablespoon butter until soft.
4. Add the rest of the butter and milk to the leeks. Gently heat until butter is melted and milk is warm.
5. Pass potatoes through a ricer or use a masher
6. Add hot milk, butter and leek mixture to potatoes
7. Stir in cabbage
8. Add sliced scallions
9. Season with salt and pepper
Note: Some chopped dill would be a nice addition, as would a half-cup of sautéed and crumbled bacon.


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Comments
Printing this out for the family meal this week.
I used to make the kids eat it before they could go trick or treating, too.
Theresa, I know. The green beer thing is just plain wrong. They even dye bagels green in NY.
Sláinte !
♥R
I like to chop colcannon leftovers extra fine and whisk into chicken broth for a great soup.
As far as St Patricks Day meals go, I've been told that until very recent times, the Irish tradition was boiled bacon, no corned beef.
Supposedly, the corned beef was brought back form Irish folks in New York.
I've read this in a few newspaper columns, I don't know how true it is.
Steve, I love the soup idea! And yes, I have seen recipes for the boiled bacon too. I'm curious about corned beef now. A cursory glance at Wikipedia supports your comment. Corned beef is an Irish American tradition. Makes sense with so many Jewish delis here serving salted meats like pastrami.
Christine, Happy St. Paddy's day once again!
Kathy, where are you? A Portuguese fishing village that serves colcannon is my kind of place!
Stardazer, the combination of flavors is surprisingly nice. I love mashed potatoes of any kind and this is a fun addition to the repertoire.
oaxacagringa, I just was in Mexico with Irish friends and they had the most adventurous apetites, something I wouldn't have expected 10 years ago. Irish food is definitely blander than what you are used to if you are in Oaxaca eating the best food in Mexico!
Algis, you do seem to have the luck of the Irish when it comes to clover! My daughter found a four leaf clover in Colorado. Wish we had thought to photograph it.
Michael, enjoy your meal and let me know how it is. Erin go Bragh!