Sprezzatura

Because neurotic is the new black....

Ann Nichols

Ann Nichols
Location
East Lansing, Michigan,
Birthday
December 31
Bio
I write, I read, I clean up after people and I worry about things. I have a chronic insufficiency of ironic detachment. My birthday isn't really December 31; it's March 22 but it won't let me change it.

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NOVEMBER 3, 2010 9:41AM

So It Isn't "Top Chef...".

Rate: 35 Flag

As of today, I have had my job cooking at a large, Protestant church for five months. I had imagined it as a kind of "Top Chef: Church."  In reality it tends to be more like a combination of “Upstairs, Downstairs” and some kind of circus in which animals are replaced with small children and the high-wire is represented by gigantic pots of boiling soup. I still love it, I still look forward to going in, but there is very little preparation of truffle-scented foam.

When I took this job, I was at a point in my life as a home cook that allowed me to watch “Top Chef,” “Hell’s Kitchen” and “Iron Chef” with a certain smug and informed confidence. It was, for me, like watching a sport that I could actually play. “He’s going to go for a sous vide!” I would announce to my spectacularly disinterested family. “Those scallops are overcooked – I can tell from here!” I knew the secrets of  roux that didn’t taste raw and flour-y, how to poach tender and flavorful chicken, and (my equivalent of the Hail Mary Pass) how to make croissant, doughnuts and bagels from scratch. I could party with a spice rack like nobody’s business and present a finished product that spoke of Mumbai, Phuket or Puglia. In the same way that I had lived my childhood years as Dorothy Gale, Jo March and Anne Shirley, I was hitting middle age as Fantasy Chef, in the mold of Anthony Bourdain. Not French and effete, my secret self had tattoos, a pierced nose, Batali-bright cooking shoes, a foul mouth and a favorite late-night watering hole served marrow and tripe soup.

As it turns out, I have not lulled so much as a single snail to eternal rest in a bath of garlic butter. There is no sous vide machine in the church basement, nor is there much call for truffle oil, Hawaiian sea salt, lemongrass or chutney. I cook for families, and not the kind of families that live in Manhattan and take their precocious children out for Dim Sum on Sundays. I am cooking for children who eat nothing “mixed” or otherwise arcane, for elderly folk who can’t tolerate spice like they used to, and everyone in the middle. I have a tight budget. I am, despite my fantasies, completely untrained, and I sometimes make awful mistakes based on a combination of optimism and ignorance. To wit: the scalloped potatoes that failed to “gel” and turned into potato soup, the grilled cheese for 100 people on the griddle that ranged from “torch” to “touchable” in the space of a square inch, and the broccoli cheddar soup that doomed four pots to spend eternity wearing an immobile scrim of vulcanized dairy products.

I am learning, all the time, but it is clear that the work I do is not like that of a restaurant chef working on a line and searing pan after pan of perfect quail breasts; it is far closer to catering or cooking for a school, hospital or all-you-can-eat establishment. Quantities are big, food has to be able to endure the steam table, and the lack of individual choice for diners means hitting the “happy medium” every time. I am not Anthony Bourdain; I am Chris Farley in a hair net. I work with volunteers who are concerned that I will trigger the apocalypse by putting salad dressing on the table in its original containers, and I cook for funerals, cake auctions, parenting classes, and women’s’ club teas. I know who likes Earl Grey, and which kids don’t eat any vegetables.

Last week there was a line dancing class for senior citizens, which required me to hear “Boot Scootin’ Boogie” approximately 62 times, and a tornado warning that brought a parade of sleep-pinked babies from the second floor preschool into my basement to ride out the storm. Yesterday, my kitchen was the hub of a voting precinct and I spent the day dodging volunteers who wandered in to get a snack, or to chat with me despite those white cords hanging out of  my ears, and the fact that I was juggling 350-degree pans the size of Rhode Island. It is a circus of humanity, leaving me with a head full of dancing, white-haired ladies in matching sweat suits and ironically detached poll challengers wiping Frito dust on their tweed jackets.

There is no swearing (well, not much) no tattoo, no piercings and no after-hours drinking in this cooking life. There are spectacular failures, retorts bitten back, and the odd, impotent rage when things don’t go according to plan. I’m thinking that’s all stuff that every working person deals with at one time or another. On the other hand, the time-worn, broad and generous hand of Fate, I get to put on a show at least once a week, create something from nothing, get a round of applause, and come home rich with stories, experiences and satisfaction. If I were really on “Top Chef” I would have been instructed to "pack my knives and go" the first time the scalloped potatoes left the kitchen in soup bowls. In my kitchen, the glass may be full of Church Lady Punch instead of Malbec, but it is always, always half full.

 

 

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Comments

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"...sleep-pinked babies..."

It's an act of creation all the way around. You make people happy and fed. You are a goddess.
pfffffffttttttttttttttssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhtttttttt

You've been sprayed with truffle foam! You're the Winner Ann!!!! (I wish there was a little money involved, but congratulations on being our Top Chef today)
I loved this post. Chris Farley in a hair net? You're too funny, Ann.

Cooking, especially the kind you do, for real people living real lives, is a calling. Here's to keeping your glass half full!
"Chris Farley in a hairnet." Oh my dear wonderful, Annie. What you do in the kitchen and on paper is a gift to so many people. ~r
17 years of that life....I have the tattoos, I swear a lot (tryin' to cut back), used to drink too much, smoke (tryin' to cut back), kids who never saw me, the list goes on and on. Now I scramble eggs for a living and could not be happier. You are right, Top Chef it aint.
And most days, I still pretend that I am cooking with truffles.
Love this post.
linnn - I do my best, and sometimes i do feel like Cucinara, the many-handed cooking goddess bearing whisks, coffee filters and Comet. :)

gabby - I do get paid for work, but if I got the kind of money they win on Top Chef I would SO have a sous vide machine.....

maria - apparently, it is my calling. Who knew?

joan - thanks. I will put you in touch with my boss when I request a raise.

missy - i know that you, of all people, know. I share many of your vices (!) and I just have to balance them against the whole Church Lady thing. I do wear 3-inch black steampunk boots when I serve, though...it makes me feel like me.
I know you are trying to make the best of this, but honestly, it sounds like "Bottom Chef" - hard work with few rewards. Any other cooking venues out there?
This was wonderful. Apparently, the line of the day is, "Chris Farley in a hairnet." I howled out loud!
May I recommend Bernie Glassman's lovely book, "Instructions to the Cook", that is if you have not already read it?
Great essay, I really know what it is like to cook in your shoes.
Sounds like the food you prepare is filled with love, that's the best kind.
rated with love
Very funny, vivid portrait of the chaos and glory of cooking in a big kitchen. You got me with the Chris Farley line!
Ann, I always look forward to your writing, and this is fantastic. I'll raise a glass of church lady punch to you.
What a loving chef you are filling bowls and plates with all the love you can and making sure all glasses are always, always half full.
Your "circus of humanity" sounds very enjoyable--from babies to seniors and everyone in between. A challenging group to cook for, no doubt, but you seem to be more than equipped to deal with it.
Ann, you make it sound (almost) fun.
we all seem to love "chris farley in a hairnet." nice one, annie.

twenty-odd years ago i went from cooking for me and a precocious child who loved dim sum to being the stepmother of seven, well, not so precocious people, let's say. learning how to cook for 25 to 30 people for routine sunday dinners and birthday parties at least a few times a month was truly a bizarre experience. i was a julia clone and then i was buying ... much ... bigger ... pots and pans and the learning curve was steep. you captured it with humility and humor here, just enough of each in the recipe. xo
How great is this? You are filling bellies and warming hearts. R
I really think you should turn this experience into a Diary of a Church Chef or something like that, make this blog that!!!
Cajun Cook
No sharks have been jumped. Maybe sneak a slice of gouda on the hamburgers instead of cheddar. Small steps.
I will now think of you as the Next Church Network Star!
Wonderfully written. I can absolutely picture everything. Why can't the soppy columnists in my local newspaper write this well?
I like your style, Ann, and I bet the scalloped potato soup was delish!
wonderful metaphor for political candidate/actual office-holder
Any post you write is full to the brim (not half). I love the thought of you trying to run Hell's Kitchen, or an Annie Version, in a church basement.
Having spent my growing years on a farm, Ann, the most important place is the kitchen. There is absolutely no question about that.
I can tell from your writing that you add a lot more than food to those souls. It is great to see a person who truly cares about food and about community to be charged with this responsibility!
Oh this just made me want to be you. The way you write about the 'ordinary' things, you transform them, cast spells, make them magical. You make potato slop sound desirable. You're an alchemist, a wizard, and the way you play with this life makes it all, every bit of it, irresistible.
If you recall, last season's Top Chefs cooking for a school lunchroom, at pennies per serving, was an epic fail. You are doing what they couldn't, wouldn't even try.
Sounds like fun. (And when did Malbec become all popular? Seems like it's all I hear about anymore.)
I hate cooking but I loved this post! Rated.
OK, the Chris Farley line is hilarious, but overly modest. You are working magic in there, just not rarefied ingredient magic. Everyone leaves happy, because you know which kids won't eat vegetables and how to tone down the spices for the blue-haired and balding set. Kudos for that. And for delightful writing.
Too funny. Makes me think of an old joke's punchline, "What, and give up show business?" :) Rated
Honest, true and funny! Well done Ms Nichols.
Church lady.......got it.

I hate that you took down a post after a bit of criticism. Seems like you're a pretty cool woman......