Before I begin, a disclaimer: I’m not saying French food is bad. On the contrary, there are many French dishes that I love. But even when you live in a culinary mecca, and appreciate the native cuisine, over time, you will probably find yourself craving comestibles from elsewhere now and then -- or even…fast food....
When I saw the billboard, I thought I was having a vision. “Brooklyn” was scrolled boldly across the top, and there was a pizza underneath.
If I had to choose a last meal, New York pizza would be it (of course, there’d be dessert, as well). Like so many people, I love those big, greasy, floppy slices of pie. The flavors, the slightly burnt taste of the crust, the grease from the cheese flowing into your mouth at each bite….
The French, however, aren’t fans of New York pizza. At least, not the many I know who’ve heard my rhapsodizing and then sheepishly admitted that, when they’d tried this culinary delight for themselves on a trip to the Big Apple, they hadn’t liked it at all. Too heavy, some are even so bold as to suggest. Which sort of puzzles me, considering these are the same people who love sausage, fatty bits of meat, and creamy sauces. But even my boyfriend, who’s grown to like such quintessential New York dishes as matzo ball soup, pastrami sandwiches, and street vendor hot dogs, just can’t find any pleasure in eating a slice of it.
So how was Brooklyn pizza going to work here?
As I looked at the ad more closely, I realized it was a Pizza Hut creation. Pizza Hut in France isn’t the same as it is in the States – here, there’s a huge variety of pizzas, many topped with fine cheeses and given evocative names. The boyfriend’s favorite Pizza Hut pizza, for example, is called la montagnarde - “the mountaineer”. It’s topped with mozzarella, a light coating of sour cream, fresh mushrooms, strips of cured ham, and Saint-Nectaire cheese.
While this might indeed make people think of a pizza version of what you’d typically eat after a hearty day of hiking in the Alps, the Brooklyn pizza, on the other hand, does a less successful job of capturing the spirit of Brooklyn – at least to me. It has a mix of mozzarella and cheddar cheese. The sauce is barbecue, instead of tomato, and it’s adorned with a few strips of bacon (or chicken, if you prefer).
The boyfriend doesn’t know why it’s supposed to evoke Brooklyn in the French mind, either, but the other day, he came home with a craving for it.
Out of principle, I’d told myself I wouldn’t try this poor substitute for real New York pizza. ….But it did sound good....I decided to give it a shot.
Off we went to the nearest Pizza Hut, and ordered not one, but two Brooklyn pizzas, because at French Pizza Huts, if you pick up your order, you get a free pizza of the same or lesser value. “The Brooklyn pizza better not totally suck,” I thought, as we carried the boxes back home.
Ali took a shine to the pizzas right away – or at least to the warm cardboard around them. We managed to get him off the boxes, cut into one of the pizzas, and tasted.
I have to say, the Brooklyn pizza is nothing like a real Brooklyn pizza. But it’s still pretty darn good. We ate a few slices with relish (the feeling, not the condiment) – except for Ali, who, it turns out, doesn’t like bacon, and was pretty disappointed in our choice.
Here’s to Pizza Hut’s Brooklyn Pizza. And here’s to my continued hope that someday an Italian-American chef will open a real New York-style pizzeria in the City of Light.
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Geraint Isitt
Maureen Andrade
nilesite
john guzlowski
Rosycheeks
Jacob Sugarman
Salon.com
Comments
I ask you, is it pizza if it has pineapple, tuna fish,squid, or bacon on it? Of course it isn't. I've heard tell of a monstrosity that has shoarma topping as well. It doesn't bear thinking about.
Have you ever had DeLorenzo's Tomato Pie?
http://www.delospizza.com/history.htm
It is a 'Burg institution. Once you have tasted DeLorenzo's you are spoiled for other "pizza's" for all eternity.
The World Traveler and I patronized the Hudson and Mott location frequently, because Mimi Baba lived down the street, but that's closed now. Hamilton Ave. is alright. It is the Pino's Pizza in the Stephanie Plum novels and yep, the cops and ambulance drivers really hang out there. It's right by St. Francis hospital.
Do you drink Perrier-menthe?
Tis our shared love of PIZZA and black cats.
You are a bad gal, you have made me very hungry
at 10 am in the morning, and all i got
is canned chili and fried chicken,
which i warm a bit in my
reliable old warhorse
of a microwave.
but..i ...want..pizza....!
These French certainly are a fussy lot, aren't they?
I am reconsidering going to Paris to look at all the stuff
I have been introduced to by my gal on the scene,
mz. editors' favorite
(sorry...tease...)
alysa.
Scratch your dear big googly eyed Ali behind the ear for me.
Pizza hut.
What did i do with their menu?
I might order a delivery.
Here in the Northeast it is full summer heat apocalyse...
musnt go out, they say.
they say, hydrate! they say, yes they say this: check your urine.
if it is yellow, you are doomed.
V. Corso - I love the "freakin' fresh" slogan. I would say that here we're luckier; there are a lot of really good Italian-style pizzerias in Paris that don't do a bad job at all, but that pizza, while delicious, is so diferent from NY pizza....sigh.... As for toppings, I like my pizza pure and simple, too, though I will say the bacon on the Brooklyn pizza wasn't terrible. And to answer your question, I don't drink Perrier-menthe - or any other kind; because of my IBS, I have to stay away from carbinated beverages. If I do occasionally break the rules, it's usually only for: limonade (kind of like Sprite), Schweppes Agrume, Cherry Coke, or regular Coke. The boyfriend likes Perrier, though.
Heck, the pie you pictured even looks fantastic, and I'm not much of a pizza hut fan... like you say though, the HUT is a whole different animal in Paris.
The marketing strategy may be ill advised however, seeings that only American ex-pats will be appreciating the Brooklyn style pizza.
Anyway, a fun read.
R
But Dominos Pizza now has gluten free..:)
Hugggggggggggggggg
Kalimera or must I say, Bonjour ?
I can't see screen so excuse typos
Pizza! Paris! Maybe a NY Italian guy would like to go to Paris withe to open a pizza place and other stuff
Let me know in next hour if this sounds like you so I don't have to wait in this line any longer
The best - made in a charcoal oven with fresh mozzarella delivered daily - take out is in brown paper tied up with string -
'my favorite thing!"
:-)
You will all thank me.
Although with all the real fromage and real croissants, I'd be just fine without. :) Very fun piece, Alysa. ~r
R.
Your cat however is GORGEOUS.
While in London eons ago, it was hot dogs and ketchup that I tried so hard to find or re-create...
Our favorite pizza in one town out here was 'Live from New York' pizza (and the owners are from NYC), it was just as you described, cheesy, greasy, slightly burned crust -- when we ate there again after many years, I guess the NY style faded in deliciousness, as we all got stomachaches and moaned about 'all that grease' : )
The nephew (from Philly and Brooklyn) sniffs at our "sad" version we now love: "so doughy, not greasy enough..." complete with New Yorker gestures.
We reply: "You're in Oregon, be glad there's not arugula and broccoli on there!"
I've said it before but Ali is one totally gorgeous cat! Maybe he can get a contract as spokes-cat for Pizza Hut.
R
If i came to France, i would visit the exquisite art, wherever
it is. I would marvel at architecture. I would talk to Parisians
in an un-ugly-american way. I would go to the ballet? Maybe the opera, now that you told me how cool it is.
Summer heat death of the Northeast is over.
Alot of good moms and dads, dressed to the t's for their kids'
graduations, collapsed. Ah well. the sacrifices they make for their children. If they had known about the urine thing earlier, it could
have perhaps been avoided.
Raining now. After a night of epic storms.
Looks like os is still here.
How embarrassing for us doomsayers.
It sure would be nice to know WTF is going on, but that is not granted to we mortals.
tr ig – First and foremost, thank you for your compliment to Ali. He’s sleeping now but I’ll tell him when he wakes up. He’s very proud of himself, so I’m sure your comment will please him. Secondly, Saint-Nectaire cheese is a yellow-type cheese, with a mild flavor…and I’m realizing that, not being a huge cheese connoisseur myself, I have no idea how to describe it beyond that. The only thing I can add is, as an American, I don’t have the palate required to appreciate many French cheeses, which I find too strong. But Saint-Nectaire goes down smooth. You could possibly find something like it on a cheese plate at some fancy party. Thirdly, I think even if the pizza appealed solely to expats, Pizza Hut could do decent business. But I think regular French people will want to try it, too. Often, names of US places are so evocative and exotic to them. And luckily, they won’t be disappointed, because while it is definitely not a pizza you’d find in a standard Brooklyn pizzeria, it’s really good, I have to say….
Chicken Maaan – Thank you for your words about Ali. I’ll tell him. I wonder what he would do if he ever found himself at your place, with all those chickens? I think he’d probably be afraid. He’s so brave in some ways, but he’s never seen a chicken before. As for making your own French Pizza Hut Brooklyn pizza, could be worth a try! If you do, I hope you enjoy it!
Steel Breeze – Oh, here goes, the Chicago contingent : - ) One of my best friends is from Chicago, and a few years I went there to visit her. I did really enjoy the hot dogs and the pizza you guys have…but my heart will always be in New York!
Linda – I have no idea why they put bacon on there…and it’s actually so little that it really doesn’t make a huge difference to the overall experience of the pizza. I feel like they should have done bacon bits, or bits of cooked ham, which they do have on some of the other Pizza Hut pizzas here. As for gluten-free Dominos – yay!!! I am so happy you can enjoy junk food pizza from time to time, too!
Jeanette – Haha! It is indeed!
Erica – I’ll look into that place. As I wrote before, I didn’t realize it, but one of the benefits of posting this was getting pizzeria recommendations! Yes! I’m very sorry about your cat Panther. Is she the one whose lovely picture is beside the title of your blog? I always look at that picture and think how much that cat looks like Ali.
Deborah – I’m glad you’ve found a good pizza place where you are, even though I can’t believe you didn’t like the New York pizza you had (I’m always amazed whenever anyone tells me this). As for the croque-monsieur, I’ve had them before, but I’m not a huge fan. It’s mainly a question of cheese, actually: having grown up in the US, with an Italian-American mom, my base palate is American or English cheeses, or Italian ones. But croque-monsieurs are definitely worth a taste.
Belinda – You are so right! I am just consoling myself with this totally not real Brooklyn pizza….
Con – Oh, if only! Sigh..I long to have a good slice of pie you have to fold in half….
OLGA – Thanks for reading, and kalimera (I’ve always thought that was such a beautiful word for “hello”). I’m sorry Pizza Hut is so expensive there in Greece – here, it’s really a good deal. But I guess it’s a trade-off; hopefully you have other great things to eat that are cheaper.
designanator – There is Italian-style pizza here, and the Parisians generally do it really well. We have an Italian restaurant in our neighborhood that has great traditional dishes, and pizza as well, and it is heavenly! But as a native New Jersey/New Yorker, my dream pizza will always be that kind….
Pandora – Hehe : -) I hope things went well and you got your card. But beware Frenchmen who want to open a pizzeria with you…Long ago, I tried to get fake-married so I could stay in France…and I fell in love with the guy…he allegedly fell in love with me….in the end, ironically, no marriage, because we were now “really” in love…and a few months later, a big broken heart for me…..
sweetfeet – BACON! Baconbaconbacon! - Thanks for making me think of that commercial. I am cracking up!
postmormongirl – Thanks for reading. I feel like cats must think that if a surface is warm AND the center of attention, they have to be there.
toritto – That sounds delicious – and the setting and packaging sound awesome, too. I’ve always wanted to go to Coney Island (I feel bad that I haven’t gone already), and now when and if I do get there, I’ll eat a Nathan’s hotdog in honor of my grandmother, who loved them, and I’ll get some of this amazing pizza to go!
Amy – That is definitely the great divide. I’ve had Chicago pizza (in Chicago, so the real stuff, I promise) and I liked it, but it’s just not the same. I really think it has to do with what we grew up with. As for Ray’s, I don’t particularly like their pizza, either. But the next time you find yourself in the NY area, you may want to check out some of the places people have suggested in the comments here. I can only imagine how delicious they are.
cheshyre – Thanks!
BOKO – I’m sure there must be some kind of equivalent to Pizza Hut’s Brooklyn pizza in the US, although I’d never heard of using barbecue sauce in lieu of tomato sauce on a pizza, until I moved here…. I think this might really just be an international effort.
Stim – You make an interesting point. Maybe French people would prefer Chicago pizza, especially since in their culture, there are things like quiche, etc. My boyfriend’s mom makes her version of pizza, which is a thick pie-like thing, very good, and very similar to Chicago pizza, now that I think about it….
Joan – You make a good point – there are some amazing things here that it’s hard to find elsewhere. But man, do I miss my pizza! As for bagels, I’ve found them in this frozen foods store called Picard, if I’m really jonesing, or there are some bagel places scattered here and there – but you’re obligated to have the bagel as bread for a sandwich; in all of the places I’ve gone, you can’t just buy a bagel with butter or cream cheese or something on it. And of course, even if you could, nothing could beat the freshness or variety of bagels in the New York area. I’m thinking even now of the amazing, fresh bagels my dad would buy every Saturday morning for us all to have breakfast. Cinnamon raisin….my mouth is watering…..
Myriad – The French’s often odd use of barbecue sauce is actually often surprisingly delicious. But at first I was very much like you. I felt the same way about ketchup-flavored potato chips…but they, too, are wonderful. I admire the French’s culinary risk-taking, even though it doesn’t always pan out, even so….
Judy – Good point, though I do wonder if social class is an issue, rather than just region. For example, food from the north of France tends to be heavier, with lots of French fries and such. But there is also a large working-class population there, so I could see the way it could seem to be a social thing…not sure, because I feel like native French people eat well even with a small budget. I’m going to think more about this. Thanks for reading, and for giving me something to ponder….
nilesite – Haha! I like how you think!
caroline marie – The pizza is delicious, I promise, though nowhere near as heavenly as a real New York pizza (though you’re from Chicago, so to you, a New York pizza may not be heavenly at all). Thanks also for your kind words about Ali. I know he appreciates them.
Frank – I totally know what you mean! I feel like no matter how unconventional pizza is, it’s still pretty hard to totally screw up. I’m glad you got to appease your craving, even though that particular pizza definitely doesn’t sound very appetizing!
Just Thinking – Oh, hotdogs! That’s the one thing I absolutely can’t find here, and have no hope for. There are some decent substitutes, like “merguez”, which are spicy sausages that are similar to hotdogs, and come from North Africa. But I can’t even remotely hope to one day taste the equivalent of a mouth-watering Hebrew National dog on one of those buns…that’s why I eat so many of them when I go to America. And I love what you wrote about pizza in Oregon!
Eva – Thanks – I wish you could send me some NY pizza, too! : - ) I’m sorry you’re lactose-intolerant. I have a friend in New York who’s the same, but still occasionally eats pizza anyway…and suffers, but no regrets. But I’m glad to read that you don’t really mind not being able to eat pizza – tant mieux, as the French would say. As for Ali…hm….I may just have to send Pizza Hut a letter….
harmonicprogression – Oh, I totally, totally understand! I wish I could do like your sister, and bring NY pizza back here, but the long flight time probably wouldn’t make it turn out okay, alas.
littlewillie – I’ve heard that theory, too. But I don’t know, because New Jersey tap water tastes like absolute ass, but their pizzas and bagels are just as good as the ones in New York are, in my opinion. Unless maybe they’re made in NYC and are imported into NJ? Thanks for giving me a new conspiracy theory… : - )
James – I know if you came here you’d do far more than eat Pizza Hut – and I’m thrilled that you still would want to go to the opera! I’m also very, very glad the heatwave is hopefully over and that you, at least, did not suffer from extreme dehydration. As for OS, I hope it lives a long and happy life, and us, too, for that matter.
Loved this glimpse into European Pizza. I was born in Brooklyn so it's okay for me to shout: The Brooklyn simply cannot have cheddar cheese!
Sorry I missed this for too long.
Steven - The pizza you witnessed being made sounds delicious, but I'm not sure it would necessarily resemble what I consider a real New York pizza - fresh ingredients do not necessarily an NY pizza make. I mean, it depends on the pizzeria. For me, what you describe is like the pizza you get in Italy or even here in Paris, in real Italian restaurants and pizzerias: fresh, crisp, and delicious. But a typical New York pizza tends to be floppy, greasy, and incredibly flavorful. Even so, your description still got my mouth watering....